Following last year’s major refit of its dining room, The George has become one of our favourite local eating destinations. Under the guidance of new landlady Emily Hammond, this family-run inn has moved decisively into “gastropub” territory, as befits the sparse elegance of the almost unrecognisable new dining area. Although still only in his mid-twenties, head chef Wade Raithby has proved himself more than capable of delivering consistent excellence – a minor miracle, given the cramped kitchen space available.
Last Saturday night, four of us oohed and aahed our way through the full three course menu. For starters, two of us went for the duck and ham hock terrine, while the other two splurged on a wonderfully inventive combination of seared king scallops and tender morsels of new season lamb. If that sounds like an unlikely marriage of flavours, then the mintiness of the accompanying pea mash and the sweetness of the surrounding carrot beurre blanc formed the bridge between the two. (Pretentious, but true!)
While my three companions swooned over the oven roasted fish fillet with Devon crab risotto, poached egg and hollandaise sauce , I had a Major Gastronomic Moment of my own: roast loin of venison, sitting on a perfect circle of rich and unctuous carrot mash that had been wrapped in ribbons of rhubarb, accompanied by baby fondant potatoes and rich venison sauce. (Venison and rhubarb? Trust me, it worked!)
At this stage, none of us really needed pudding – but strictly in the name of research, I persuaded everyone to give it their best shot. Dave went for the mature Cheddar, served with biscuits and a glass of Viognier ; Sue and Kevin shared a slice of “fantastic” lemon tart with vanilla ice cream, and I regressed to the age of six with a colourful, gloopy layering of apple mousse and orange jelly, served with a sticky marshmallow topping in a tall latte glass.
Together with a bottle of Brouilly and our pre-dinner drinks (three pints of Marstons Bitter and a glass of Saint-Veran), our bill came to £118. At just under thirty quid a head for such top-notch (and beautifully presented) cuisine, we reckoned it was worth every penny.
Tables at The George can be booked by calling (01335) 310205. The pub’s offical website is here. Starters from £4 to £8, main courses from £9 to £14, desserts from £4 to £5.
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